ScryPrice

The cheapest way to buy a Magic: The Gathering deck

Quick answer

The cheapest way to buy an MTG deck is to price the whole decklist at once and optimize for the lowest total, rather than buying each card from its cheapest seller. Most marketplaces charge shipping per seller, so that stacks postage. ScryPrice compares TCGplayer, Card Kingdom, and ManaPool free.

Buying a whole deck cheaply is a different problem than buying one card cheaply. The single-card question is easy: sort by price, click the lowest. Do that forty times for a decklist and you'll almost always overpay, because the thing that sinks you isn't the cards. It's the shipping.

Why the cheapest deck isn't the sum of the cheapest cards

Here's the mistake nearly everyone makes. You paste your list, find the rock-bottom price on every single, and buy each one from whoever's cheapest. Feels optimal. It isn't.

Most marketplaces charge shipping per seller. Your forty cards might come from twenty-five different sellers, and every one of them wants a handling fee. The card prices were as low as they get, sure, but you just paid shipping twenty-five times. The real cheapest cart minimizes card price plus shipping as one number.

That usually means buying from fewer sellers. Paying a few cents more per card to consolidate an order and clear a free-shipping threshold can beat the "cheapest" per-card price by a lot. You can't eyeball this across a full decklist. Too many combinations.

Should you buy from one seller or many?

Neither extreme wins reliably. One seller means one shipping fee but rarely the lowest price on every card. Many sellers means the lowest price on each card with a fee stacked onto every parcel. The cheapest answer usually sits somewhere in the middle, and it moves with the size and makeup of your list.

This is the exact tradeoff an optimizer exists to crack. It tests consolidating into one or two stores against spreading across several, prices each scenario with the real shipping rules baked in, and hands back whichever combination lands lowest. Consolidation beats per-card hunting most of the time, though not every time, which is why you let the math decide per deck.

The shipping math that decides the winner

Every store has its own rules, and those rules flip which split is cheapest depending on how big your order is. These are the thresholds that actually move the total:

How each store charges shipping
StoreShippingFree over
TCGplayer DirectAbout $5.49$35
Card KingdomAbout $5.61$99
ManaPoolAbout $1.35 per shipmentConsolidates sellers automatically

Watch how it swings with cart size. A $40 order ships free on TCGplayer Direct but costs $5.61 on Card Kingdom. Push to $110 and both go free. ManaPool is a marketplace that folds its sellers into a few shipments, so the per-shipment cost stays low even when no single seller carries your whole list. Where your deck lands cheapest depends on what's in it and how the totals fall.

How to actually buy a deck for the least

Skip the spreadsheet. Fastest route to the lowest price is to let a tool solve the whole thing at once:

  1. Paste your full decklist into ScryPrice. No account, nothing to install.
  2. It pulls live prices across TCGplayer, Card Kingdom, and ManaPool, refreshed daily, across 170,000-plus indexed cards.
  3. It solves for the lowest total including shipping, then shows the cheapest split: which cards to buy from which store.
  4. You get a ready-to-buy cart link for each store in that split, plus per-card links if you want to check the work.

For ManaPool it runs ManaPool's own optimizer, so the consolidated total you see is the real one, not an estimate. Curious how the solver works? How ScryPrice finds you the cheapest cart walks through it.

Prebuilt decks vs. buying singles: which is cheaper?

A sealed prebuilt, like a Commander precon, hands you a playable deck in one purchase with one shipping fee. For a ready-made list that's often the lowest-friction option. But you're paying for the whole product, cards you may never run included, and you can't shop the price of each piece.

Singles are usually cheaper once you already have a specific decklist, because you only pay for the cards you need and each one is priced against every seller. The savings land after the tool consolidates those singles into the fewest carts. Chasing a known list rather than a boxed product? Pricing the singles almost always wins.

Two controls that push the price down further

Once you've got a baseline, two settings squeeze out real money.

Set a condition floor

You pick the lowest grade you'll accept across five: NM, LP, MP, HP, DMG. Building a deck to play, not to display? Dropping from NM to LP or MP opens up cheaper copies that sleeve up fine. Set the floor once and every card in the split respects it.

Allow cheaper printings

Turn on printing substitution and ScryPrice swaps in the cheapest version of the same card: any printing, same Oracle text. A staple reprinted five times has five prices, and the art from some old Commander precon is often the cheapest of them. If you don't care which printing sleeves up, this alone can shave real money off an EDH or Modern list.

The one-line takeaway: the cheapest deck is the lowest total across the fewest sellers, not the lowest price on each card. Consolidation beats per-card hunting almost every time.

Which store tends to win

There's no single cheapest store. It rides on your list and its size. Small orders under $35 often favor TCGplayer Direct's low free-shipping bar. Bigger orders can tip toward Card Kingdom once you clear $99 and shipping goes free. ManaPool frequently wins on scattered lists because it consolidates sellers instead of stacking fees. Want the head-to-heads? See TCGplayer vs Card Kingdom and ManaPool vs TCGplayer. The winner changes per deck, which is the whole reason to let the tool compare all three instead of buying from one store out of habit.

What a deck actually costs

Knowing the ballpark before you buy keeps you from getting sticker-shocked. These are rough ranges, not fixed prices, and they drift with the metagame:

To price your exact list instead of a range, run it through the MTG deck price calculator, or the Commander deck price calculator if you're building EDH. For where the money actually goes, how much it costs to build a Magic deck breaks it down by format.

Is it really free, and what's the catch

ScryPrice is free and needs no account. Card data comes from Scryfall and MTGJSON, prices refresh daily. That commission never changes which option ranks cheapest. The order is decided by total price plus shipping, full stop. You pay the same either way; the tool just points you at the genuinely lowest cart and lets you check every per-card price yourself.

Price your card list free →

Frequently asked questions

Is buying each card from its cheapest seller actually cheaper?

Usually not. Most marketplaces charge shipping per seller, so buying every card from its individual cheapest seller can mean paying handling fees over and over. The cheapest deck minimizes card price plus shipping together, which normally means consolidating into fewer sellers. ScryPrice solves for that lowest total automatically.

Which store is cheapest for a whole MTG deck?

It depends on your list and its size. Small orders under $35 often favor TCGplayer Direct's low free-shipping threshold. Larger orders can tip to Card Kingdom once you clear $99. ManaPool often wins on scattered lists because it consolidates sellers at about $1.35 per shipment. ScryPrice compares all three and shows the cheapest split.

Is it cheaper to buy a prebuilt deck or build it from singles?

For a ready-made list, a sealed prebuilt like a Commander precon means one purchase and one shipping fee, but you pay for cards you may never run. If you already have a specific decklist, singles are usually cheaper because you only pay for the cards you need at competitive prices, then consolidate them into the fewest carts.

Can I buy cheaper card conditions or different printings to save money?

Yes. Set a minimum condition floor across five grades, NM, LP, MP, HP, or DMG, so you accept sleeve-able played copies instead of paying for near-mint. You can also allow cheaper-printing substitution, which swaps in the lowest-priced version of the same card. Both can drop a deck's total noticeably.